[要平又要正] 基輔切爾諾貝爾之旅 – 向核電廠進發

by 友緣人

酒店的早餐很豐富,每天都吃得飽飽的,不過6天也沒有變過……

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每天也要吃一大件三文魚。

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是日核電廠一日遊是這個旅程的重點,需在出發前兩星期經跟指定agent辦理,並不是時常有團,另外需要提供護照資料報名,團費每人130USD。集合地點是基輔火車站的KFC。

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以Uklon app叫的士非常方便,每次不用等5分鐘便有車。從酒店到火車站的車費才50UAH,在市區內多次叫車的費用也沒超過60UAH。

認住這間快餐,是烏克蘭的連鎖店有很多分店,有點像IKEA是自己選好食物後付款,窮遊的不能錯過,可惜這次是豪遊!XD

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登上mini van專車,旅程正式展開,今團有10人,其他人來自德國和奧地利。車程大約兩小時,途中會播放介紹當年核事故的短片。

有興趣也可以看這段Youtube短片:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ1-EO0HcOI 

 

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先介紹一下切爾諾貝爾核電廠事故,轉載至蘋果日報:

前蘇聯切爾諾貝爾(Chernobyl)核電廠爆炸發生至今30年,是唯一達到國際核災難級數7級的核災,以下問題助你了解這次核災的影響。

Q:核災何時發生?
A:1986年4月26日零晨1時,位於烏克蘭的核電廠4號反應堆發生爆炸

Q:為甚麼會發生爆炸?
A:核電廠人員對4號反應堆進行維修檢查,在測試緊急情況下的安全程序時出錯,導致反應堆過熱爆炸,洩漏大量放射性物質,輻射比廣島及長崎的原爆高200倍

Q:附近的村民何去何從?
A:離核電廠最近的普里皮亞季(Pripyat)大約有4.5萬人,他們在核災發生後兩日疏散,永遠不能回家,但那時他們已經受高水平輻射污染。當局其後疏散附近35萬居民,並將核電廠方圓30公里列為隔離區

Q:誰人負責撲滅大火?
A:來自前蘇聯地區的60萬至80萬名消防員及救援工人趕到,花了兩年撲滅大火、埋下放射性設備、房屋、倉儲等,他們還修建了「石棺」,蓋在反應堆附近阻隔放射性物質。但他們的下場悲慘,多數人已去世、殘障甚至自殺死,其中參與救援的消防員普拉維克(Vladimir Pravik)因被輻射所傷而死亡,終年僅23歲,有傳瞳孔顏色都由啡色變成藍色

Q:最終有多少人受影響?
A:超過700萬人受影響,受災最嚴重的是鄰近核電廠的白俄羅斯、俄羅斯和烏克蘭等地。輻射雨甚至遠至愛爾蘭,英國北部的綿羊及芬蘭拉普蘭區(Lapland)的馴鹿由於受到輻射,當局要將牠們撲殺

Q:有多少土地受影響?
A:超過16.3萬平方公里土地受影響,大部份都不可以再作耕種之用。不過,仍有450萬人住在受污染土地上,進食由土地種出來的食物

Q:核災後附近地區生態有何改變?
A:人類疏散離開後,野生動物將那裏視作避難所,出現狼、野馬、河狸、野豬及其他動物。不過,住在隔離區內的動物死亡率及基因變異機率都更高

Q:切爾諾貝爾全部反應堆都安全?
A:前蘇聯本來計劃興建6個反應堆,事發時第4號反應堆已經運作兩年,第5、6號則仍在興建中。爆炸發生後,另外3個反應堆後來重新啟動,更運作了13年之久

Q:其他國家如何處理?
A:由於事發後蘇聯政府一度隱瞞切爾諾貝爾核災,瑞典是第一個向全世界公佈核災消息的國家

Q:核災造成多少人死亡?
A:31人當場死亡,他們因暴露在高輻射下而死,約500萬人受到輻射

Q:當局如何善後?
A:石棺內仍然有高濃度輻射,當局會將新石棺蓋在舊有石棺之上,但新石棺只可維持100年

Q:要多久才會復原?
A:普里皮亞季受污染情況嚴重,放射物鈈(plutonium)的半衰期約24,000年,估計至少2萬年內,當地都不適宜人類居住

切爾諾貝爾核電廠位於基輔以北約110公里,核電廠外直徑30公里範圍被畫成禁區,也是第一個檢查站,需要下車核對護照資料和聆聽參觀須知。

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參觀須知

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最重要的一點當然是不要取走禁區內任何東西和一定要跟隨導遊。

Are you ready?正式出發!

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導遊下車時每人也派發了3M口罩一個,因很多地方也很大塵,不過我還是沒有戴上。

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首先參觀的是很近檢查站的一條荒廢小村落,當中有士多和建於1959年的社區會堂。

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士多

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社區會堂

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然後進入10公里範圍禁區的切爾諾貝爾城。

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這裡的紀念碑記下了當年需要撤離的村落和紀念因核事故所犧牲的英雄。

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這裡還有個由日本送贈,紀念311核事故的紀念碑。

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近年烏克蘭徹底拆毀了許多列寧像,要「去共產主義化」,這裡還找到個。

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午餐是在指定的餐廳享用,這裡所有的食物和飲品都是從基輔運來的。

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烏克蘭據說才是羅宋湯的發源地,喝起來比較清淡,有很多火腿粒。

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主菜是芝士蛋包雞柳,味道還算不錯。

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飯後參觀了建於消防局外的紀念碑,紀念當年還未知核事故而英勇殉職的消防員。

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還展出了本來想用來清理核廢料的機械人,可惜最終任務失敗。

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之後參觀前蘇聯軍事設施 DUGA 雷達牆,用於捕捉洲際飛彈的信號。蘇聯可靠這雷達在更遠的距離上獲得預警信息,從而賺取攔截洲際飛彈的時間。

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這個殘破模型可感受到DUGA(最右邊)是如何龐大。

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開始來到高潮景點,先是荒廢了的幼稚園,我真的不知道整個佈局是否後人刻意擺放到這樣,導遊也沒有答案,他說他多年前入行已是這樣子。

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外面還有一處不知為何沒清洗的高輻射泥土。

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終於可以一睹當年大爆炸的4號反應堆。

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這個是永遠也不會落成的5號反應堆。

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新的石棺將在2016年11月建成,意味著以後不能再見到4號反應堆的廬山真面目了。

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ukraine

(來源:明報)

4號反應堆其實還有近1000名工作人員輪班工作作維修,可知一場核災難的代價是如何大。

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雖然經過了30年,輻射已大幅降低,導遊聲稱短暫停留是沒有問題的,最少他來了200多次還非常健康……

最後來到的是普里皮亞季鎮(Pripyat),建於1970年,本是核電站中科學家和工作人員的家園,曾擁有近5萬名居民。核爆後蘇聯官方並沒有立即向居民發出警報,在足3日後才開始命令撤出,但當時核塵埃雲已經抵達瑞典……這裡所有東西都停留在1986年……

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湖邊餐廳

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飲水機

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戲院

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政府辦事處

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宿舍

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社區會堂

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最著名的就是這個從未開放便被廢棄的遊樂場,本來於5月1號開幕,沒想過4月26號會發生這災難……

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遊樂場入口有些鮮豔奪目的菇類,越美麗越可怕……

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學校

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為何整個學校都是防毒面罩?當年冷戰期蘇聯把學校定為受核武攻擊的避難所。導遊說一地的面罩,估計是之後有人把裡面最值錢的活性碳偷走。

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籃球場

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游泳池

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臨離開時幸運地和近距離地遇到一隻野生狐狸,牠不太怕人,反而我怕牠多點。

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導遊丟給牠方包,牠聞了聞完全看不上眼。後來其他團友不知從那找來件pizza投到牠面前,牠咬著然後飛快地跑走了……或許這裡真的寸草不生平常根本吃不飽,所以要冒險向人類討食物。

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於黃昏時離開核電廠範圍,送上日落下的新石棺。

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臨離開時需要在10和30公里的檢查站進行輻射檢查,那機器感覺很兒戲。

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回到火車站經已8點半了,初試搭地鐵回酒店。這裡的地鐵當年建造是帶軍事用途,全都建在超級深的地底,需要搭超級長而且速度很快的扶手電梯,望下去有點心寒的感覺。

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地鐵的車身帶著烏克蘭國旗的色彩,不要看它外貌殘破,車速也是超乎想像的快。

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晚餐到了酒店地下的Mille MIlage意大利餐廳,聲稱城中最好的意大利菜和Tiramisu。

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味道符合預期,兩個人1245UAH(約380港幣),非常滿意!

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